Where have all the veggies gone?
Rooted Palate #3
Last month, I had the chance to visit Ama-Town, an island in Shimane prefecture, at the invitation of my friend, Daichi-san. He has established a glamping site by the beach through my former company, FoundingBase, which specializes in rural revitalization.
The aim of this trip was to immerse myself in the island’s offerings to assist Daichi-san in crafting experiences for international tourists. Being a vegetarian, my experience likely mirrors the dietary preferences of many tourists visiting Japan.
Japan isn’t particularly accommodating to vegetarians or vegans, regardless of the reasons behind the dietary choice (religious, environmental, health-related, etc.). While many dishes are rich in vegetables, fish broth and meat are often used for flavor, making it challenging to experience the local food culture. However, Japanese cooking can still be enjoyed due to its unique seasonal ingredients. It just requires some effort and language skills to fully appreciate it.
What about Ama-Town?
Ama-Town, a remote island of 2000 residents, faces unique challenges. As an island dependent on tourism and the fishing industry, seafood dominates the culinary scene. This can make finding vegetarian options difficult, especially given the limited number of restaurants and eateries on the island.
Having lived in Japan for about 7 years, I’ve learned to navigate being a vegetarian in rural areas. If no suitable restaurants are available, I can always buy fresh vegetables from the local supermarket or vegetable stall.
However, I was surprised when I visited the local supermarket, which was more like a corner store with a grocery section. There were hardly any fresh vegetables. The only option I found was a bundle of week-old spinach, wrapped in plastic and priced almost double that on the mainland.
The next day, we visited a local eatery offering various types of “teishoku”, a set menu with rice, soup, and a main course. In such places, I usually choose the tempura teishoku, requesting an all-veggie version. The eatery obliged, but to my surprise, the set included out-of-season pantry vegetables like onions and carrots. （I wish I had taken photos. Perhaps next time)
Why are there no veggies?
There are several hypotheses explaining why Ama-Town lacks a prevalent vegetable-consuming culture.
- Island Size: Given its small size and limited land, the town primarily relies on seafood.
- Import Dependence: With local production confined to specific food types and meats, most food is imported, making it costly.
- Self-sufficiency: The most significant reason is that everyone grows their food! Traveling through the town, you’ll see that nearly every house has a small plot growing various vegetables. Consequently, there’s no demand for fresh vegetables in stores. As a result, it’s not uncommon for fresh vegetables to remain unsold for days.
The town has a Campaign slogan that is “naimonowanai” which roughly translates to there is nothing (you can’t find) where there is nothing. This is a play with words to highlight the fact that you can find everything in a place where there is nothing.
Is this a version of sustainability in the future?
At first glance, this appears to be a case of food waste due to low consumption rates. However, if we reframe this, the model could potentially hint at a sustainable future. In this future, nearly all local demand could be circulated on a small island. It’s a topic worth exploring. How could geographical limitations foster local sustainable food systems?
